Tag Archives: gold leaf

Assignment 5 – photographic influences


This assignment is rooted in the tradition of Feminist Photography, which first appeared in the 1960s. Women photographers had their place before this, and in the very early days , ‘those with ability found professional photography a refreshingly level playing field.‘ (Ang, 2014, p114) [1] but it was limited to the wealthy, as only they could afford the necessary equipment. People such as Julia Margaret Cameron, Zaida Ben Yusef, Anna Atkins and Gertrude Käsebier were among those who made a name for themselves before and around the beginning of the 20th century. On the whole, their images tended to be more artistic than documentary in nature.

In the period from the beginning of the 20th century to the Second World War, women photographers gradually expanded their acceptable remit to include social documentary,  domestic and vernacular photography and fashion, as well as an under-reported representation as war photographers [2]. However, it was only with the huge upsurge of the so-called  Second Wave of Feminism of the 1960s [3] that the place of women in society and more specifically as photographers was addressed. This was the period of history that spawned the feminist photographer – one who used photography to make specific and overt political points about women’s place in the world.

The 1970s was a hugely creative period for both feminist artists and photographers, and the exhibition Feminist Avantgarde of the 1970s, [4][25] which was shown at The Photographers Gallery in London in 2016 revealed the range and ability of work that was undertaken at that time. Of particular interest to my assignment was that produced by Barbara Kruger [5], with its use of words overlaying images in a Dada advertising style, Francesca Woodman‘s use of the body in performance to make specific points about her place in the world, [6] and Carolee Schneemann’s reclamation of the female nude as a feminist symbol through tableaux. [7] Some of the work was aggressive in style, with overt use of female nudity to make people feel embarrassed and ashamed, such as VALIE EXPORT’s Genital Panic [8], which actively courted hostility in its audience. Others used self-mutilation to make their point, such as Karin Mack [9] and a third group questioned their place in society through the different roles that they were required to take, e.g. mother, lover, working woman, etc. (Martha Wilson [10] Marcella Campagnano [9].

From the 1990s a new wave of feminism began to appear – The Third – which has focused on ‘the micropolitics of gender equality‘ [3] and which continues to this day. This has been attempting to find an acceptable path between the aggressive politics of 1970s and 1980s feminism, with its hint of butch women in dungarees which is actively rejected by many younger women, and the selfie generation – obsessed with how they look, and who often see current feminism as permission to choose whether to seek equality and independence or the role of the traditional Stay At Home Mother/Wife/Girlfriend. Alongside this, views about gender and cultural politics are changing at an ever-increasing pace, with non-binary, non-gendered and LGBTQ groups each claiming a Gaze of their own and intersectionality, gender mainstreaming, and the reframing of woman as ‘subject, not object’, all being added to the mix. This is outlined in the concluding chapter of Angela McRobbie’s The Aftermath of Feminism (2009) [11] and leads to concerns about whether diluting the message too much risks losing it altogether.

It is not until one is shown a clear alternative that some of the baggage that mainstream arts is carrying becomes obvious. Throughout this course unit, I have been considering different aspects of how much of our world is wholly perceived through the lens of the Male Gaze, a term coined by film critic Laura Mulvey in her 1975 essay ‘Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema’ [12] and which is defined as

The perspective of a notionally typical heterosexual man considered as embodied in the audience or intended audience for films and other visual media, characterized by a tendency to objectify or sexualize women.
‘it’s because of the male gaze that female characters are regularly eroticized’  Oxford Dictionary (n.d.) [13]

With the concept of the Male Gaze having been accepted, it was only a matter of time before feminists asked whether a Female Gaze might also exist [14], and more lately a Non-gendered Gaze, and we began to wonder what art using the female gaze might look like. Jill Soloway brilliantly outlined it in her lecture On the Female Gaze (TIFF Uncut, 2016) [15]. Two books which consider this are Annie Liebowitz’s Women [16],  which is a series of portraits of some of the important women in world affairs around the millennium, (although I was not convinced at her lecture recently that she specifically started with a feminist viewpoint, and she indicated that it may have been added by Sontag) and Charlotte Janse’s Girl on Girl: Art and Photography in the Age of the Female Gaze [17], which considers work by 40 female photographers from all over the world in a refreshing reversal of the usual male-oriented photographic anthology. The latter book in particular is fascinating in the way it subtlely offers an alternative viewpoint on matters as varied as Nakeya Brown’s Hair Stories Untold [18] and Pinar Yolaçan’s Maria (2007) [19] a series on Afro-Brazilian matriarchs, whom she dresses in handmade costumes of meat and offal. It soon becomes abundantly clear that half the world’s population has views that are quite different from the historic patriarchal one, and that those views are interesting and as worthy of exploration as the more traditional male ones.


Bringing this from the general to the particular, my assignment uses the concept of the female gaze to question where women are really positioned in today’s society. It draws on the performative aspects of work by photographers including, Carol Schneemann, Francesca Woodman, Cindy Sherman and Jo Spence’s Phototherapy series [20], whose work specialises in using the female body as a prop/clothes horse to make political and social points. Schneemann and Woodman were often unclothed in their work and used the environment of the studio to make their point, while for Sherman and Spence the clothing is an important part of the performance, connoting different domestic and societal roles.

I have written previously [21] about the work of the Albarran Cabrera duo, who use gold leaf as a part of their image making, and my own early experiments using similar techniques. On the whole, one cannot actually see the gold leaf in their work, as it is usually only the back of the works, but I rather like being able to see the leaf around the edges of the image – it firmly acknowledges its presence and provides the opportunity for symbolic value.

Process of work towards the final assignment

As has been stated previously, the starting point for the assignment was a series of silhouette images that I made from a photoshoot. My early experiments with them included printing them on thin washi paper and backing them with gold leaf, so that there was a hint of it showing through the paper.


I also tried using words around the images, which I liked but which did not provide sufficient depth of meaning for an assignment. However, it did produce the variable of using the images in reverse silhouette, offering the opportunity of viewing them as two different sides to the story.

two side of woman

At this point, I became interested in how the series could be presented so that the gold leaf would be visible but also contained, as it is very fragile. Further experiments using some of the book making skills which I had begun to learn at the SW OCA’s workshop day [22] gave me the idea of remodelling a Sewn and Tied Binding [23] to include a window within each page, and sandwiching the images back to back. When sewn together the final result becomes a book that one can view from either end, but with each end beginning a different story.

The final part of the production process was to make a box in which to present the fragile book, initially to protect it, but also to add an element of mystery and value to the object inside. I made the box from instructions found in Marie Clayton’s (2017) Ultimate Papercraft Bible, p141 – Made to measure box [24].

The overall aim was to produce a physical piece of work that had a story to tell, but in which the materiality of the piece added layers to that story. I have avoided giving too many suggestions in the Assignment itself about what viewers might like to read into the object, but will outline a few here:-

  • the box as container (Pandora’s Box) and as mystery (The Box of Delights)
  • the physical book giving gravitas and value to the images as well as being a showcase for them
  • the images being seen through windows (voyeuristic, trapped, exhibits-objects)
  • the gold leaf extending raggedly from underneath the images, with occasional spots on the surface (imperfection, partially hidden value/worth of women to society)
  • the silhouetted figure (everywoman) who is clothed and shoed (not vulnerable, strong)
  • the double-ended nature of the book – whichever end one begins, the story becomes the same, and it is binary in nature. One can either start from a good, white demon or angel, but the internal story moves to the reverse, but identical conclusion, a bad, black demon or angel.
  • the powerful strength of the poses – there is nothing submissive about them at all.
  • the concept of woman as being a stereotype, either good or bad, and its transformation between the two ends (angel and demon) to indicate that there is a middle ground.

However, despite all these meaningful connotations, the overarching feelings that it provokes for me is one of exuberant play and the joy of collaborating with other women.

Finally, I would like to thank Kate Aston for all her help during the process of making this assignment and for pointing me towards her post [25] on the Feminist Avantgarde exhibition. Unfortunately, I was unable to attend this myself and her review was very helpful.. She has been a great source of support and ideas throughout.


  1. Ang, Tom (2014) Photography: The Definitive Visual History. London: Dorling Kindersley.
  2. Taylor-Lind, Anastasia (2017) ‘Women Photographers Are Being Written Out of the War Narrative.’ In: Time.com [online]. At:  http://time.com/4694204/women-war-photographers (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  3. Dorey-Stein, Caroline (2015) ‘ A Brief History: The Three Waves of Feminism.’ At: https://www.progressivewomensleadership.com/a-brief-history-the-three-waves-of-feminism/ (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  4. Güner, Fisun (2016) ‘Feminist art of the 1970s: knives, nudity and terrified men’ [online] In: guardian.co.uk At:  https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/womens-blog/2016/oct/03/feminist-art-of-the-1970s-knives-nudity-and-terrified-men (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  5. Woodward, Holly (2017) ‘Barbara Kruger, Sarah Sense and abstract layers of meaning.’ [online blog] In: Holly’s OCA I&P Blog. At: https://hollyocaidentityplace.wordpress.com/2017/08/17/barbara-kruger-sarah-sense-and-abstract-layers-of-meaning/ (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  6. Tate (n.d.) ‘Francesca Woodman 1958–1981’ [online] At: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artists/francesca-woodman-10512(Accessed on 09.01.18)
  7. Rose, Steve (2014) ‘Carolee Schneemann: ‘I never thought I was shocking.” [online] In: guardian.co.uk  At: https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2014/mar/10/carole-schneemann-naked-art-performance (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  8. Tate (2007) VALIE EXPORT Action Pants: Genital Panic 1969 [online] At: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/export-action-pants-genital-panic-p79233 (Accessed: 09.01.18)
  9. Poyner, Rick (2016) ‘Feminist scrutiny.’ In: eyemagazine.com At: http://www.eyemagazine.com/opinion/article/feminist-scrutiny (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  10. MOMA (n.d.) Martha Wilson: A Portfolio of Models, 1974. [online] At: https://www.moma.org/collection/works/165440 (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  11. McRobbie, Angela (2009) The Aftermath of Feminism: gender, culture and social change. London: Sage Publications.
  12. Mulvey, Laura (2009), “Visual pleasure and narrative cinema”. In: Mulvey, Laura, Visual and other pleasures (2nd ed.), Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 14–30.
  13. Oxford Dictionaries (n.d.) ‘Definition: Male Gaze.’ [online] At: https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/male_gaze (Accessed: 09.01.18)
  14. Loreck, Janice (2016) ‘Explainer: what does the ‘male gaze’ mean, and what about a female gaze?’ [online] In: theconversation.com At: http://theconversation.com/explainer-what-does-the-male-gaze-mean-and-what-about-a-female-gaze-52486 (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  15. Soloway, Jill. (2016). On the Female Gaze. [Online Video]. 11 September 2016. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnBvppooD9I. (Accessed: 09.01.18)
  16. Liebowitz, Annie & Sontag, Susan (1999) Women. New York: Random House.
  17. Janse, Charlotte (2017) Girl on Girl: Art and Photography in the Age of the Female Gaze. London: Laurence King Publishers.
  18.  Brown, Nakeya (n.d.) Hair Stories Untold. [Online] Available at: http://www.nakeyab.com/Biography. [Accessed 09.01.18)
  19. Saatchi Gallery (n.d.) Selected works by Pinar Yolaçan. [online] At: http://www.saatchigallery.com/artists/pinar_yolacan.htm (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  20. Woodward, Holly (2015) Photographers – Jo Spence (1934-1992). [online blog] In: Holly’s OCA Blog C&N At: https://hollyocacontextnarrative.wordpress.com/2015/08/11/photographers-jo-spence-1934-1992/  (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  21. Woodward, Holly (2017) Some experiments in homage to Albarran Cabrera. [online blog] In: Holly’s OCA I&P Blog.  At: https://hollyocaidentityplace.wordpress.com/2017/09/26/some-experiments-in-homage-to-albarran-cabrera/ (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  22. Woodward, Holly (2017) Saturday 14th October. In: South West OCA October 14th newsletter. At: http://www.ocasa.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/SWOCA-October-14th-2017.pdf (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  23. Woodward, Holly (2017) Preparations for assignment 5. [online blog] In: Holly’s OCA I&P Blog.  At: https://hollyocaidentityplace.wordpress.com/2017/11/08/preparation-for-assignment-5/ (Accessed on 09.01.18)
  24.  Clayton, Maria (2017) Ultimate Papercraft Bible. London: Collins & Brown.
  25. Aston, Kate (2016) Feminist Avant-Garde of the 1970s – The Photographers’ Gallery 8.10.16 [online blog] In: Kate Aston: welcome to expressing your vision At: https://kateastoneyv.wordpress.com/2016/10/09/feminist-avant-garde-of-the-1970s-the-photographers-gallery-8-10-16/ (Accessed on 09.01.18)

Exercise 4.5 – Fictional texts: Holly goes off-piste, again

Lately I have been reading King Kong Theory, by Virginie Despentes (2010), which is about how women are still required to conform to what the patriarchy thinks they should be, and any woman who does not accede the stereotypes of Mother or Whore is considered a target for abuse. A glaring example of this in in today’s news – it is reported that Laura Kuenssburg, the BBC Political Reporter has been given a bodyguard to protect her at the Labour Party conference. Various politicos are opining that it is a publicity stunt (though quite why Kuenssburg needs publicity is not clear), but many people have gone public to support her position and vulnerability, which was illustrated by a chorus of hisses at a general election meeting earlier this year. Yvette Cooper, Diane Abbott and Harriet Harman have all roundly and loudly condemned the threats, and all three are no strangers to online bullying themselves.

I find this all very dispiriting. In sixty years, have we really moved feminism so little towards the mainstream that people feel it is perfectly ok to vilify and defeminise any woman who appears to be anything other than an unopinionated doormat.

So, in support of Ms Kuenssburg and all the other women who are routinely insulted, bullied, threatened and objectified both online and in real life (have a look at the website the Everyday Sexism Project if you don’t know what I mean) I have put together this series of words and images All the images were taken of a woman by a woman, and about women, for our own entertainment. They are a reflection of the confused stereotyping of women that is so prevalent in modern society.


  • monochrome and inverted images of the same person – black and white viewpoints; stereotyping
  • gold leaf behind the images – the often unacknowledged/partially hidden value that women offer to society
  • faceless woman –  Everywoman
  • pedestal and wings – angel and demon
  • the words (in set below) – some of the names that women are called to synthesise them as a group, one that is different from men.

I also tried a second idea, as a single series of images without the gold leaf, which is shown below and which I am calling The Dichotomy of Being Female.

two side of woman

Finally, I haven’t a clue if these work, but I had a lot of fun making them. (Also, in an ideal world I would re -photograph the individual gold-leaf images, at a higher f-stop, as they are a little fuzzy around the edges.)


Despentes, Virginie (2010 e-edition) King Kong Theory. London: Serpent’s Tail.

Some experiments in homage to Albarran Cabrera

Let’s not beat about the bush here. I love the work of Spanish duo Albarran Cabrera, and in particular the way it combines unusual media, a laser sharp focus on the Moment, the Japanese influences and the way they have taught themselves photography by reading (a lot) and just trying things out. There’s a very helpful video on their website about how they work, as well as an excellent article explaining the theory behind several of their recent series here.

I’ve written briefly before about their series Kairos, in which they use gold leaf to produce a visual divide between one moment and the next, using the Japanese idea of kintsukuroi (see below).


A subsequent series, which is currently being shown on Instagram is called The Mouth of Krishna, and references the same idea that David Campany’s recent exhibition A Handful of Dust does, i.e. that everything is ultimately made of he same stardust. It is how we choose to see it that matters.

In any part of the universe there is a whole universe – Hamlet saw infinite space in a nutshell; William Blake saw a world in a grain of sand, a heaven in a wild flower, and eternity in an hour.
— Albarrán Cabrera

Most of the newer series are silver and platinum prints, some of which are toned with tea, but there are a few that are made with a different process, one they describe as Pigment print over gold leaf on Japanese paper.  An example can be seen here, but there are also a regular supply of new ones on their Instagram feed at https://www.instagram.com/albarrancabrera/. These are gorgeous, and I wanted to have a go at trying to replicate the technique on a domestic basis. I don’t know how they produce their pieces on a large scale, but I can certainly do so on a very small scale, as I happen to have both gold leaf and Japanese washi paper in my supplies cupboard.

First up was an attempt to add a gold leaf join to a torn print (using an old regular print that I don’t need any more). I found this extremely tricky and messy to do, and feel there must be an easier method than dabbing gold leaf onto glue, but the results have promise.


Then I tried the idea of making a black and white print on very thin washi paper  (Awagami – Murakomo Kozo Select) and then applying gold leaf to the back.  First result was messy – too much glue, although I really like the almost painterly feeling that it shows in close-up.

A second attempt was more successful, although I will have to make sure that I keep bits of pesky leaf off the front of the photo. I like the fact that one can just see the gold leaf peeping out from the edges on this one.


And finally, I tried it with a colour image. Albarran Cabrera mostly use yellows and reds as their colour palette, but my first attempt used greens, and was possibly too dark. (I have attached the original standard print alongside for comparison.

So, where do we go from here? I intend to use this technique for my next exercise , which is about illustrating five separate words. Just need to choose the words now! And I am also going to try it out with aluminium foil as the backing.